We promised a final entry looking back and, watching coverage of the opening ceremonies for the Paralympics, it seemed time to keep that promise. We can well believe that Vancouver is turning out more enthusiastically for the Paralympics than any city before. It would be like getting a shot at another dose of the most benign euphoric drug ever made. We'd go back in a flash if we could.
The spirit was, after all, like no other we have ever known. And that is no comment on our experience; everyone we met said the same. Nor was it just for enthusiasts born to cheer like us. Vancouverite after Vancouverite told us how they had been skeptical and thought they should just leave town for the Olympics. But the flame came and they felt it spark up and burn inside them, often much to their surprise. Claire told us of a couple she knew who had actually bought a vacation in Hawaii for February and were regretting it.
There is, it turns out, in every person, a desire for something as simple and pure as the drive to test limits, often facing real risk and dangers. The athletes try and fail and succeed and overcome and fail to overcome in Olympic sport as we try and fail and overcome and fail to overcome in the travails of our lives everyday. In their courage and grace we find again in ourselves the desire, so eroded by the wear and tear, to be courageous and graceful ourselves. The chances to be so are there everyday, if we will only see them as such.
Looking back, we don't know that we did enough to describe the feeling in Vancouver on the day of the men's hockey gold medal match. NO ONE wanted to watch at home alone or with just a few people. Everyone wanted to be with a crowd, preferably downtown and preferably where beer could be purchased. There was a pervasive fear felt by people that the game would start and they would be left out on the street with nowhere to watch and no one to watch with. It was a bit like the city was being evacuated, but instead of rushing onto planes and buses and trains, we were rushing into bars and pavilions, seeking to escape only the risk of toxic exclusion from the greatest communal moment of a generation.
Another thing worth a few more words is the sheer beauty of sport when seen live. We don't know why television can't capture it, but it can't. The grace of the speed skater's leaning caress of the ice, the pause in movement and almost in time, as a snowboarder pauses in the air launched from the side of the half-pipe, the contrast of the fluidity in the air and solidity of a good landing by an aerialist: these things are not just athletic; they are beautiful.
Finally, we would like to thank all of you who have followed this blog. More followed than we expected. We are pleased and flattered and grateful to discover that people have felt closer to Vancouver 2010 because of it. Your comments and support have been special to us. Thank you and goodbye.
Friday, March 12, 2010
Wednesday, March 3, 2010
Our Odyssey Comes to An End
Yesterday and today feel like one long day so we'll use dates. On March 2nd we got up, put the last touches on tidying the condo and packing and left the place that had been our Olympic home. We found out later that we had missed packing our camera charger but everything else was in good shape.
We had picked up an extra piece of luggage and now had four larger bags and three carry on sized bags. Our flight wasn't until 9:00 p.m. and there was no way we could lug all that around all day, so we had called the day before to confirm that we could check our luggage in the morning at the airport. The Canada Line makes travel to the airport so easy that we could then go back to Vancouver, spend the day and return to the airport for our flight without any problem.
While there were some glitches with the plan, it worked out in the end and we found ourselves back downtown sans luggage with the bulk of the day ahead of us. We had a quick bite at a Cafe Artigiano, (an excellent coffee house chain that may we think soon be giving Starbucks a run for its money in Vancouver). The City was still disassembling and cleaning up from the Olympics and many people looked a little lost without the constant buzz of activity. We read in the paper that VANOC will be providing counselling for the thousands of people who have defined themselves for the last few years by their work towards the Olympics and who, now, have no idea what is next.
We went to the Vancouver Art Gallery where there was an exhibit of original Da Vinci anatomical drawings, with Da Vinci's marginal notes--it was a special exhibit that came to the city with the Olympics, but that will be staying until May. One of the points Da Vinci makes in his notes is that it is useless to try to describe in words what needs to be shown and we won't try to fully describe the intricacy of the drawings, except to say that modern textbooks are in many respects no more accurate than was Da Vinci. In some ways it is analogous to our Olympic experience--it was impossible to capture in words or pictures--you simply had to be there.
The exhibit was larger than we expected and was fascinating. The papers were in glass, suspended vertically so that we could see the work on both sides. Da Vinci had personally dissected many cadavers and made extensive drawings and notes. His anatomical understanding was centuries ahead of his contemporaries.
In fact, his intent had been to publish the drawings as part of, essentially, a text book, but he died before he could complete the work. His heirs simply kept the material with his other things and it wasn't until almost 1900 that anyone realized that Da Vinci had been so in advance of the world: one of the most casual and dramatic wastes of work and knowledge perhaps in human history.
The rest of the museum was a mix of modern socially aware art and Group of Seven classics. There was some good photography on display and one piece of sculpture - a whale skeleton (to scale) made from plastic lawn chairs - was quite striking. From the patio on the cafe we overlooked Robson Square, with its skating rink empty, its entries barred off and crews of workers taking down the zip line, the information booth and ticket area.
At the back of the art gallery is the Olympic countdown clock, showing 0 days, 0 hours, 0 minutes and 0 seconds to the Opening Ceremonies of the Vancouver 2010 Olympics. On the opposite side is the countdown clock for the Paralympics, which start in only 10 days. Somehow, the flip side seems forgotten.
From there we made one last visit to the Bay, where there was still a line up to the Olympic store. A friend who shall remain nameless only a couple of days before thought to ask us to get him a pair of the red Olympic mittens. This was, needless to say, very late to that party. The things had been on Oprah! There were none, nor were any of the other things we were looking for in stock. The staff at the Bay looked shell shocked, but maintained a helpful attitude.
Then came our last meal in Vancouver - and what a meal it was! It was at a Belgian restaurant that served food for the gods. It was called "Chambar". From drinks made with both pisco AND absinthe to a mushroom/truffle soup that was served in an esspresso sized cup because the human palate couldn't handle more to venison and mussels that were beyond compare, this may have been the best meal we had in Vancouver. Take that Vij's!
The Canada Line took us back to the airport and Westjet took us back to Toronto where our friend Tracy very kindly picked us up at the airport (thank you, Tracy!). We didn't want to come back. As we said, some of the Olympic employees are receiving counseling for the post Olympic let down. We'd like some too.
This will be our second-last entry; we will do one more with our final thoughts.
Back on the ground,
The Entity
Paul McCulloch Alexander
Kim Boara Alexander
We had picked up an extra piece of luggage and now had four larger bags and three carry on sized bags. Our flight wasn't until 9:00 p.m. and there was no way we could lug all that around all day, so we had called the day before to confirm that we could check our luggage in the morning at the airport. The Canada Line makes travel to the airport so easy that we could then go back to Vancouver, spend the day and return to the airport for our flight without any problem.
While there were some glitches with the plan, it worked out in the end and we found ourselves back downtown sans luggage with the bulk of the day ahead of us. We had a quick bite at a Cafe Artigiano, (an excellent coffee house chain that may we think soon be giving Starbucks a run for its money in Vancouver). The City was still disassembling and cleaning up from the Olympics and many people looked a little lost without the constant buzz of activity. We read in the paper that VANOC will be providing counselling for the thousands of people who have defined themselves for the last few years by their work towards the Olympics and who, now, have no idea what is next.
We went to the Vancouver Art Gallery where there was an exhibit of original Da Vinci anatomical drawings, with Da Vinci's marginal notes--it was a special exhibit that came to the city with the Olympics, but that will be staying until May. One of the points Da Vinci makes in his notes is that it is useless to try to describe in words what needs to be shown and we won't try to fully describe the intricacy of the drawings, except to say that modern textbooks are in many respects no more accurate than was Da Vinci. In some ways it is analogous to our Olympic experience--it was impossible to capture in words or pictures--you simply had to be there.
The exhibit was larger than we expected and was fascinating. The papers were in glass, suspended vertically so that we could see the work on both sides. Da Vinci had personally dissected many cadavers and made extensive drawings and notes. His anatomical understanding was centuries ahead of his contemporaries.
In fact, his intent had been to publish the drawings as part of, essentially, a text book, but he died before he could complete the work. His heirs simply kept the material with his other things and it wasn't until almost 1900 that anyone realized that Da Vinci had been so in advance of the world: one of the most casual and dramatic wastes of work and knowledge perhaps in human history.
The rest of the museum was a mix of modern socially aware art and Group of Seven classics. There was some good photography on display and one piece of sculpture - a whale skeleton (to scale) made from plastic lawn chairs - was quite striking. From the patio on the cafe we overlooked Robson Square, with its skating rink empty, its entries barred off and crews of workers taking down the zip line, the information booth and ticket area.
At the back of the art gallery is the Olympic countdown clock, showing 0 days, 0 hours, 0 minutes and 0 seconds to the Opening Ceremonies of the Vancouver 2010 Olympics. On the opposite side is the countdown clock for the Paralympics, which start in only 10 days. Somehow, the flip side seems forgotten.
From there we made one last visit to the Bay, where there was still a line up to the Olympic store. A friend who shall remain nameless only a couple of days before thought to ask us to get him a pair of the red Olympic mittens. This was, needless to say, very late to that party. The things had been on Oprah! There were none, nor were any of the other things we were looking for in stock. The staff at the Bay looked shell shocked, but maintained a helpful attitude.
Then came our last meal in Vancouver - and what a meal it was! It was at a Belgian restaurant that served food for the gods. It was called "Chambar". From drinks made with both pisco AND absinthe to a mushroom/truffle soup that was served in an esspresso sized cup because the human palate couldn't handle more to venison and mussels that were beyond compare, this may have been the best meal we had in Vancouver. Take that Vij's!
The Canada Line took us back to the airport and Westjet took us back to Toronto where our friend Tracy very kindly picked us up at the airport (thank you, Tracy!). We didn't want to come back. As we said, some of the Olympic employees are receiving counseling for the post Olympic let down. We'd like some too.
This will be our second-last entry; we will do one more with our final thoughts.
Back on the ground,
The Entity
Paul McCulloch Alexander
Kim Boara Alexander
Tuesday, March 2, 2010
Would the Last Person to Leave Please Turn off the Lights...
When we woke up this morning the difference was palpable. It started when Kim reflexively turned on the TV and what came on was championship bowling. Yup, bowling! We didn't watch.
We had a lot to do today: laundry and cleaning up the condo so that we can return it to Ann and Arnold in the same condition it was when they entrusted it to us. We also had errands to run outside the condo. The city was quiet. The pavilions are already closed; they were taking the cow decals off of what used to be "Swiss House" and transforming it back to "Bridges" the restaurant. We had our choice of restaurant for lunch, without a line up and without a crowd.
We ate at "Cat Social House" on Granville island, on the patio with a view of the water. The setting was pristine. The waiter was friendly and said that the difference between today and yesterday was astonishing...it was like somebody hit the "off button". We had a pleasant meal, tried some excellent local beer (not sold in cans, so we couldn't bring any home) and ate at a leisurely pace.
We stopped at a local art store and had a similar conversation with the proprietor as we had with the waiter. We told her that the city and its people had won us over. We had come for the Olympics but we would be back--for the scenery, the food, the recreation and the activity. We meant it and we think that others who came will feel the same.
We also truly hope that the same energy is there for the Paralympics. We wish we could have gone to both the Olympics and Paralympics; commitments and budget required us to choose. It's too bad that they are separate events and not one Olympics which includes events for all.
We still haven't seen the Closing Ceremonies. We had planned to watch it "On Demand". Unfortunately, there seems to be a technical glitch. It seems wrong not to see the Closing Ceremonies before we leave Vancouver tomorrow. Shaw is supposed to call us when it's fixed. Here's hoping.
We leave tomorrow evening, taking a red eye flight, arriving back in Toronto at 6:00am. During the day tomorrow we plan to take in a Leonardo DaVinci exhibit that, while special for the Olympics, is open until March 2. We may also go to Northern House, which is staying open until April and which was truly breathtaking.
It certainly hasn't all sunk in. We have done and experienced so much in three weeks. We have more than 1000 pictures to sort through, but the photos cannot and do not evoke the true impact of this trip. There will likely be one or two more entries in this blog before we stop to cover the trip home and some final reflections.
Not ready to get back to life and back to reality,
The Entity
Kim Boara Alexander
Paul McCulloch Alexander
We had a lot to do today: laundry and cleaning up the condo so that we can return it to Ann and Arnold in the same condition it was when they entrusted it to us. We also had errands to run outside the condo. The city was quiet. The pavilions are already closed; they were taking the cow decals off of what used to be "Swiss House" and transforming it back to "Bridges" the restaurant. We had our choice of restaurant for lunch, without a line up and without a crowd.
We ate at "Cat Social House" on Granville island, on the patio with a view of the water. The setting was pristine. The waiter was friendly and said that the difference between today and yesterday was astonishing...it was like somebody hit the "off button". We had a pleasant meal, tried some excellent local beer (not sold in cans, so we couldn't bring any home) and ate at a leisurely pace.
We stopped at a local art store and had a similar conversation with the proprietor as we had with the waiter. We told her that the city and its people had won us over. We had come for the Olympics but we would be back--for the scenery, the food, the recreation and the activity. We meant it and we think that others who came will feel the same.
We also truly hope that the same energy is there for the Paralympics. We wish we could have gone to both the Olympics and Paralympics; commitments and budget required us to choose. It's too bad that they are separate events and not one Olympics which includes events for all.
We still haven't seen the Closing Ceremonies. We had planned to watch it "On Demand". Unfortunately, there seems to be a technical glitch. It seems wrong not to see the Closing Ceremonies before we leave Vancouver tomorrow. Shaw is supposed to call us when it's fixed. Here's hoping.
We leave tomorrow evening, taking a red eye flight, arriving back in Toronto at 6:00am. During the day tomorrow we plan to take in a Leonardo DaVinci exhibit that, while special for the Olympics, is open until March 2. We may also go to Northern House, which is staying open until April and which was truly breathtaking.
It certainly hasn't all sunk in. We have done and experienced so much in three weeks. We have more than 1000 pictures to sort through, but the photos cannot and do not evoke the true impact of this trip. There will likely be one or two more entries in this blog before we stop to cover the trip home and some final reflections.
Not ready to get back to life and back to reality,
The Entity
Kim Boara Alexander
Paul McCulloch Alexander
Monday, March 1, 2010
A Day The Country Shared With Us
Yesterday we didn't blog. It was a good day--we went to Northern House, enjoyed dinner at Vij's and then watched the day's Olympic coverage on TV. Not a lot to tell. Different story today.
Today was the last day of the Olympics. It was also the day when the men's ice hockey gold medal match would be played. We knew that if we wanted to watch that game with others but have a seat and something to eat and drink, we would need a plan.
We rose earlier than usual and went to the False Creek pavilions where both Quebec house and Saskatchewan house were. That site didn't open until 10;00 and we got there a bit after nine. There was a line up but it seemed likely that many already in it were going to Molsen Hockey house or Ontario House.
Here we encountered the most disappointing moment of our Olympics. The line went up one side of the street from the gate and down the other side of the street past the gate again and on down the street. When the gate opened finally, the line did not hold. Those in the part of the line down the far side of the street just crossed it and jumped ahead of those who had arrived and waited ahead of them. The best that can be said of the mob desperate to secure a place to watch the big game is that it didn't degenerate to actual violence, but the behaviour was wrong and jarring after so many days of orderly civilized behaviour.
After squeezing past the bottleneck outside Molson Hockey House we went as planned to Maison du Quebec. That pavilion wasn't opening until 11:00 but we arrived to be at the front of that line, instead of well back in the line to Saskatchewan or Ontario house. We waited and watched person after person show up and ask, inanely, if they were playing the game. Many, strangely, left when told the game would have the French commentary, as though it could be heard over the noise of the crowd, anyway.
We were joined by our friend Claire, got in essentially first and secured a seat and food. The food was delicious and we were delighted to find that, while, there were no tables, just chairs, the staff were providing service to the chairs for both food and drink. We didn't use it much, since we stocked up when we arrived, but the fact of it around us created a civilized feeling that we are sure no other pavilion had.
As for the game itself, what can be said? If you watched, you know how exciting it was; if you didn't, no words of ours can convey it. There was, for Canadians, something wonderful not just about cheering with hundreds of others for Canada, but in doing so at Maison du Quebec. After all, whatever differences Quebec may have had with the federation, hockey was always something we shared passionately.
It was a smaller crowd than we had for the first US/Canada game, a more intimate feeling, but every bit as intense. We were across the street, essentially, from Canada Hockey Place where the game was being played. We were literally as close to the game as you could watch it without being in the arena. When we poured out onto the street after the win, we joined with those who had been there pouring onto the street and then with the city.
It was an enormous celebration. Street after street was shut down; in places all one could do was let the tide of the crowd take you and feel yourself a part of it. Threre were unstopping cheers and high fives. There were people climbing on lamp posts and bus shelters and roofs. There was no end of joy and no end of communal celebration.
Eventually after walking to the perimeter of the Robson street walk, we found a patio table to sit, eat and drink and watch the people go by. They continued to call out to us as they went by and reach over the patio fence to high five. One motorcycle went by with a woman topless to the world. We ate delicious food, drank three bottles of celebratory bubbly, and soaked it in. People at other tables had been at the game and we happily talked with them about that, and about their families and anything else that came to mind.
We walked Robson and Granville, (the latter of which was actually busier than Robson), stopped for another drink and walked out again. It was Kim who realized that the perfect way to cap all this off was to rent skates and go for a skate in Robson Square, which is what we did. None of us is a great skater, but we glided as best we could and shared that feeling with so much that we had seen over the Olympics.
Then, drained from skating, emotion, walking with an entire city, and, yes, a day of consistent drinking, we found our weary way home. The Olympics are over and nothing remains but the journey home (and to catch the closing ceremonies--we were too busy taking part in the celebrations to watch them live). Over the next few days we will ponder all that we have seen and done.
Completely satisfied,
The Entity
Paul McCulloch Alexander
Kim Boara Alexander
Today was the last day of the Olympics. It was also the day when the men's ice hockey gold medal match would be played. We knew that if we wanted to watch that game with others but have a seat and something to eat and drink, we would need a plan.
We rose earlier than usual and went to the False Creek pavilions where both Quebec house and Saskatchewan house were. That site didn't open until 10;00 and we got there a bit after nine. There was a line up but it seemed likely that many already in it were going to Molsen Hockey house or Ontario House.
Here we encountered the most disappointing moment of our Olympics. The line went up one side of the street from the gate and down the other side of the street past the gate again and on down the street. When the gate opened finally, the line did not hold. Those in the part of the line down the far side of the street just crossed it and jumped ahead of those who had arrived and waited ahead of them. The best that can be said of the mob desperate to secure a place to watch the big game is that it didn't degenerate to actual violence, but the behaviour was wrong and jarring after so many days of orderly civilized behaviour.
After squeezing past the bottleneck outside Molson Hockey House we went as planned to Maison du Quebec. That pavilion wasn't opening until 11:00 but we arrived to be at the front of that line, instead of well back in the line to Saskatchewan or Ontario house. We waited and watched person after person show up and ask, inanely, if they were playing the game. Many, strangely, left when told the game would have the French commentary, as though it could be heard over the noise of the crowd, anyway.
We were joined by our friend Claire, got in essentially first and secured a seat and food. The food was delicious and we were delighted to find that, while, there were no tables, just chairs, the staff were providing service to the chairs for both food and drink. We didn't use it much, since we stocked up when we arrived, but the fact of it around us created a civilized feeling that we are sure no other pavilion had.
As for the game itself, what can be said? If you watched, you know how exciting it was; if you didn't, no words of ours can convey it. There was, for Canadians, something wonderful not just about cheering with hundreds of others for Canada, but in doing so at Maison du Quebec. After all, whatever differences Quebec may have had with the federation, hockey was always something we shared passionately.
It was a smaller crowd than we had for the first US/Canada game, a more intimate feeling, but every bit as intense. We were across the street, essentially, from Canada Hockey Place where the game was being played. We were literally as close to the game as you could watch it without being in the arena. When we poured out onto the street after the win, we joined with those who had been there pouring onto the street and then with the city.
It was an enormous celebration. Street after street was shut down; in places all one could do was let the tide of the crowd take you and feel yourself a part of it. Threre were unstopping cheers and high fives. There were people climbing on lamp posts and bus shelters and roofs. There was no end of joy and no end of communal celebration.
Eventually after walking to the perimeter of the Robson street walk, we found a patio table to sit, eat and drink and watch the people go by. They continued to call out to us as they went by and reach over the patio fence to high five. One motorcycle went by with a woman topless to the world. We ate delicious food, drank three bottles of celebratory bubbly, and soaked it in. People at other tables had been at the game and we happily talked with them about that, and about their families and anything else that came to mind.
We walked Robson and Granville, (the latter of which was actually busier than Robson), stopped for another drink and walked out again. It was Kim who realized that the perfect way to cap all this off was to rent skates and go for a skate in Robson Square, which is what we did. None of us is a great skater, but we glided as best we could and shared that feeling with so much that we had seen over the Olympics.
Then, drained from skating, emotion, walking with an entire city, and, yes, a day of consistent drinking, we found our weary way home. The Olympics are over and nothing remains but the journey home (and to catch the closing ceremonies--we were too busy taking part in the celebrations to watch them live). Over the next few days we will ponder all that we have seen and done.
Completely satisfied,
The Entity
Paul McCulloch Alexander
Kim Boara Alexander
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